A vicious killer –both victim and executioner– clutches a sharp blade for self-defense and cold- blood murder. They are no stranger to violent tendencies. This obsession with danger and thirst for blood is the inspiration for this season.
The SANKUANZ Autumn-Winter 2023 collection continues an in-depth exploration into the integration of street style in high fashion. The silhouette of the Tibetan robe from last season has evolved, now with sleeves that blend into pleats, bringing forth a balance between traditional oriental style and street fashion. A new design is introduced with the absence of neckline and an overly-inclined shoulder-line, forming a radial shape at the back, revealing the unique charm of oriental shapes. High-shoulder suits command power, while graffiti prints reflect the collision and fusion of high fashion and street culture as they exist in the same universe. Vintage furs invoke an ominous feeling, as if danger is lurking underneath the luscious outerwear. The palette of this season consists of browns, tortoiseshell colors and other dark shades that evoke a sense of nostalgia, as this collection reinvents the style of 70-80s with a modern design.
The dagger, a signature symbol of SANKUANZ, is incorporated in new ways in the leatherware of this collection. It is used at the toecap and the heel of pointed cowboy boots and the end of belts, like a killer’s lethal weapon in disguise. These details establish a sinister atmosphere when accompanied by the crimson clutch, a metaphor for bloodshed.
The chunky retro sneakers, a statement item of SANKUANZ, are featured in new colors and bring an element of disruption with its rugged and oversized volume.
The AW23 runway show is set in an abandoned parking garage in Paris. The models stride through the space with crimson on their face, hands, and bags. Carrying accessories inspired by car keys, they play the main role in a dramatic scene: A killer is walking away from their crime scene, to drive towards their unpredictable end.