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Based in Xiamen City, a thriving creative hub located in China's southern part, Shangguan Zhe launched SANKUANZ straight after graduation, focusing on upbeat and progressive menswear. With a background in graphic design, ShangguanZhe's collections are infused with youthful energy, as well as ironic references, which combine fragments of popular culture with the radical voice of contemporary art. Working with photographers, musicians, graphic designers and painters, his approach is collaborative and multidisciplinary, shaped by the eclectic and vibrant coastalcommunity he grew up in. He is, in fact, part of an exciting generation of young designers redefining the landscape of current Chinese fashion. Fascinated with uniforms and the formal language of clothes, the Chinese designer keeps experimenting with fabrics, sartorial codes and embellishment, searching for innovative and subversive ways to twist menswear staples.
SANKUANZ relies on contrasts and balance. The designer's signature can be found in his striking mix of oversize volumes with cleaner tailoring, achieving a subtle yet dramatic effect. Clashes lead to harmonious results, making his silhouettes rather surprising. This season, he pursues his exploration of arresting graphics and shapes, adding edge to urban staples. His use of graphic design is often bold and provocative, such as eye-catching symbols and slogans printed on the back of a fur-trimmed parka. Prints are unusual as well, ranging from allover motifs with a psychedelic feel to playful figures evoking Asian fairy tales, as well as Kenny Scarf's paintings.
The main inspiration of SANKUANZ AW16 collection is the first ever Asian Games held in Beijing in 1990. From this moment, sports began having a significant political role in China. Funded by the government and employed as a means of showcasing its power and the superiority of communism. Zhe as a teenager in the 90's witnessed this monumental event and was greatly influenced by it. Sports acted as a shortcut for common teenagers to overcome poverty and to gain fame. Due to the lack of materials during this period, the idea of wearing oversized sporty uniforms widely spread. Having the latest imported sportswear and personalized items was a major trend among the teenagers.
With the energy of sportswear in mind, as well as the 1990 Asian Summer Games held in Beijing, Zhe reworks hoodies and track pants to a striking effect, either printed or monochromatic, featuring a reworked SANKUANZ logo.
An exclusive flag print references national pride, stripped of its clear symbols to become an abstract form. Tailoring remains sleek and directional, from stripy wool jackets with exaggerated lapels to matching pants resembling pajamas. Military-inspired shapes are paired with easy sportswear, underlining the spontaneous and enduring style of his clothes.
A softer hand defines the fabrics this time, from fluid velvet and smooth PVC to baby corduroy and plush intarsia, as well as featherweight nylon. The color palette is bright and contrasted, with touches of burgundy, army green, fluorescent yellow and purple. Combining man-made textures with noble fibers, Shangguan Zhe approaches modernity in a carefree and liberating way, conjuring up the raw and rebellious voice of awkward teenagehood.